Wine writers aren’t supposed to play favourites. The gig requires dedication and an ability to assess the wide array of wines available with an eye toward understanding and celebrating the ones that truly stand out. What makes one wine great and another not so good, isn’t whether we personally like it or not.
Yet, it’s easy to get cynical when faced with commodity wines and brands that are manufactured for a specific target market or an ideal consumer contrived by a focus group. I don’t believe wine lovers ever thought to themselves, ‘I bet this California cabernet would taste better had it been aged in a bourbon barrel.’
But, at a time when many winemakers are reducing the use of oak barrels, there’s a growing assortment of robust and flavourful bourbon-, rum- or tequila-barrel-aged wines awash in char, smoke and vanilla flavours. They are selling, particularly in the United States, and reportedly attracting younger drinkers and spirit drinkers to the wine aisles of the liquor store.
In the quest for flavour, these brands are amping up the oak. Everything is on the surface, there’s no nuance or hope that the second sip or glass is going to offer a different tasting experience than the first.
New ideas, new trends and new interpretations of wine are endless fodder for this column, but not all are worthy of consideration. If wine lovers are after more intensity and depth of flavour, they don’t need a cabernet that’s been amped up with bourbon-y goodness. They can shop for a well-made wine crafted with different varieties that deliver more flavour as well as finesse, starting with the eight wines featured this week.
Black Hills Estate Winery Rosé 2022 (Canada), $26.99
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Black Hills improved the character of its rosé by changing its winemaking approach and the grape varieties used. Pinot noir was traded for grenache, syrah and, when available, mourvedre to make more of a Southern France-inspired style. In 2022, the charming and flavourful blend centres on grenache and syrah, which contribute juicy berry fruit and savoury flavours to a pink wine with a silky and refined finish. Drink now. Available in British Columbia at the above price or $30 direct, blackhillswinery.com, various prices in Alberta.
Borsao Tinto Garnacha 2022 (Spain), $12.95
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Made in Campo de Borjo in northern Spain, this smooth and full-bodied red is consistently a great value. This shows the complex side of grenache (a.k.a. garnacha), offering a mix of fruity, spicy and earthy notes. Appealing aromas and flavours made this a red with freshness and intensity that’s enjoyable with or without a meal. Drink now to 2026. Available at the above price in Ontario, $15.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $14.29 in New Brunswick, $17.59 in Newfoundland.
Gassier Fleur de Syrah 2022 (France), $19.95
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Domaine Gassier and its sibling Château de Nages are certified organic producers. Fleur de Syrah is made in Costières de Nîmes, the most southerly appellation in the Rhône Valley, a sunny region that coaxes lush red fruit flavours from syrah grapes without losing freshness or focus. Peppery and floral accents add to the enjoyment of this nicely structured and persistent red wine, which includes 5-per-cent grenache in the blend. Drink now to 2028. Available in Ontario.
Hester Creek GSM 2022 (Canada), $34.99
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The debut vintage of Hester Creek GSM (a red wine made by blending grenache, syrah and mourvedre) is a welcome addition to its large portfolio made with wines grown on the Golden Mile Bench estate and other parts of the Okanagan Valley. The search for heat-loving grenache grapes led them to what’s known as Vineyard Eleven, on the east side of Osoyoos Lake. The style leans into the red fruit flavours and soft and round character of grenache, which contributes to the approachable charm of this nicely layered red. Drink now to 2028. Available direct, hestercreek.com.
Ken Forrester The Misfits Grenache 2022 (South Africa), $34.95
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Ken Forrester’s winery in Stellenbosch is internationally known for the quality of its chenin blanc, but they aren’t the only wines in the cellar. The Misfits label offers winemakers Forrester and Shawn Mathyse an opportunity to explore different grape varieties (syrah, cinsault and grenache, for example) and winemaking techniques. Made entirely from grenache, this medium-bodied red suggests an interesting mix of juicy red and black fruit flavours (cherry, blackberry, raspberry), with savoury and earthy accents. Nicely structured and persistent, this is enjoyable now but has potential to age. Drink now to 2027. Available at the above price in Ontario, $24.50 in Quebec.
Luis Marin Old Vine Amethyst Edition Garnacha Crianza 2020 (Spain), $13.95
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The star power of grenache (a.k.a. garnacha) shines brightly in this affordable and appealing red wine made in Cariñena. Made in a dry and medium-bodied style, this reveals nicely integrated ripe fruit flavours (blackberry, cassis, raspberry) with fragrant cedar and lavender notes. A crowd-pleasing pizza, pasta or burger red that’s ready to drink. Drink now to 2026. Available in Ontario.
Mitolo G.A.M. Shiraz 2019 (Australia), $49.95
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G.A.M. is named after winery founder Frank Mitolo’s children, Gemma, Alexander and Marco. This plush and persistent expression of McLaren Vale shiraz is showing youthful character, with a core of dark fruit and savoury flavours enhanced by cedar and chocolate notes from extensive oak aging (20 months in a mix of new and older French and American barrels). It’s a powerful wine that you can enjoy straight away or tuck safe away for later. Drink now to 2030. Available in Ontario.
Monasterio de las Viñas Reserva 2019 (Spain), $15.95
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The simple black text and white labels for Monasterio de las Viñas don’t standout on liquor-store shelves, but this satisfying red blend from Cariñena makes an impression where it counts – in your glass. This ripe and structured reserva mixes grenache, tempranillo and other varieties to show impressive complexity and character for its price. Drink now to 2028. Available at the above price in Ontario, $15.99 in British Columbia, $16.99 in Manitoba, $15.65 in Quebec, $22 in New Brunswick, $21.92 in Newfoundland.