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waters on wine

The start of summer means peak grilling season for most of the country. Whether you’re flipping burgers, searing salmon steaks or smoking ribs, there’s a style of wine that can add even more flavour to your experience.

There are many factors to consider when suggesting a wine to serve at a cookout, starting with cooking method (grilled, smoked or barbecued?), sauces or seasonings and weather forecast. I’ve long since abandoned the idea that there’s a perfect wine for any occasion. There are, however, many that will elevate a meal and moment.

To my taste, the best wines for grilled fare have appealing fruity and fragrant character. There are plenty of bottles of red, white and rosés that can contend with the smoke and scent of sizzling meat, poultry or fish, and taste delicious sipped out of a crystal wine glass, red plastic cup or camping mug as the case might be.

This week’s wine recommendations come with general food pairing suggestions to add some context. There will be more suggestions to come as the search continues for great wines to add to the enjoyment of your summer get-togethers.

Badenhorst Secateurs Chenin Blanc 2023 (South Africa), $21.95

Rating:89 /100

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Secateurs is a rich and concentrated expression of chenin blanc (with small additions of semillon and grenache blanc) from Swartland with honey, savoury and earthy notes adding complexity to the mix of tree and tropical fruit flavours. Serve chilled, but not icy cold, with grilled chicken and corn on the cob. Roast pork or grilled salmon dishes are strong contenders, too. Drink now to 2028. Available at the above price in Ontario, $19.80 in Quebec (2022 vintage).

Château Beau-Site 2018 (France), $48.95

Rating:94 /100

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Beau-Site is one of the oldest estates in the Saint-Estèphe commune in Bordeaux. The blend for its 2018 vintage is cabernet sauvignon-dominant (73 per cent), with merlot (25 per cent) and petit verdot. The medium-bodied style is structured and savoury, with nice intensity; dark fruit flavours with some stony and earthy notes. Fuller-bodied, fruity and refreshing Bordeaux reds like this are a classic pairing for fattier cuts of steak, such as ribeye or sirloin, or grilled lamb. I’m thinking it would be equally enjoyable with a good burger. Drink now to 2032. Available at the above price in Ontario, $44.25 in Quebec.

Jean-Max Roger La Grange Dîmière Sancerre Rosé 2023 (France), $29.95

Rating:90 /100

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The popularity of rosés from the South of France turned attention away from the quality and rewarding character of pink wines from other parts of that country. This 100 per cent pinot noir from Sancerre is a serious example, with enjoyable fruity character, depth and structure. The elegant and balanced style would match well with seared salmon or simply seasoned shrimp or chicken. Drink now to 2026. Available at the above price in Ontario, $30.25 in Quebec.

La Ferme du Mont Le Ponnant Côtes du Rhône Villages 2022 (France), $26.95

Rating:90 /100

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Le Ponnant is a ripe and juicy grenache and syrah blend, with pleasing cherry, berry, spice, earthy and cedar notes. At this youthful stage, it’s showing good intensity of fruit as part of its fuller bodied, flavourful red-wine style. A good pairing with grilled meats and vegetables. Drink now to 2027. Available at the above price in Ontario, $26.99 in Manitoba.

Le Macchiole Bolgheri Rosso 2021 (Italy), $42.95

Rating:93 /100

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This satisfying red wine from Bolgheri is a blend of merlot, cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon and syrah. The finished wine is nicely balanced and approachable in its youth but has the potential to age. A core of dark fruit flavours is enhanced by spice and chocolate notes, which combined with the creamy texture and lingering finish make for a serious and crowd-pleasing style. Drink now to 2035. Available at the above price in Ontario, $52.99 in British Columbia, $44.95 in Quebec, $60 in Nova Scotia (Bishop’s Cellar).

Sacred Hill Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2023 (New Zealand), $23.95

Rating:90 /100

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Sacred Hill delivers a nicely concentrated and refreshing sauvignon blanc, with a broad spectrum of green pepper, citrus and tropical fruit flavours. The dry and medium-bodied white wine conveys the zesty and flavourful character of Marlborough in a style that’s pure and persistent. The body and flavours make a dynamic match for lightly seasoned grilled fish or chicken, but that palate-cleansing character works with any dish that benefits from a squeeze of lemon. Drink now to 2027. Available at the above price in Ontario.

Pasqua Passimento Rosso 2021 (Italy), $15

Rating:87 /100

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A blend of merlot, corvina and crotina grapes results in a rich and juicy red wine with an intriguing mix of sweet, sour and chocolate flavours. The name, Passimento, alludes to the appassimento process where grapes are air dried to concentrate sugars and flavours before pressing. In this case, the grapes dried for one month before processing, adding to the complexity and concentration of the finished wine. Serve slightly chilled, with grilled meat entrees. Drink now to 2025. Available at the above price in Ontario, $18.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta.

Pentacle Les Trois Routes Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2019 (France), $63.95

Rating:92 /100

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This fresh, fragrant and harmonious expression of Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a mix of grenache with 7 per cent cinsault, aged primarily in concrete. The finished wine is lighter and brighter than the robust regional blends with richer and more flavourful grapes, such as syrah and mourvèdre. The medium-bodied style boasts an appealing mix of ripe fruit (plum, cassis and berry notes) with some floral and spice accents that will play nicely with a wide array of grilled meats and fishes. Drink now to 2030. Available in Ontario.

Sangre De Toro Rioja (Spain), $14.95

Rating:88 /100

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One known for the plastic bull dangling from the neck of the bottle, the value-priced Sangre de Toro label has been extended to include this tempranillo-based red from Rioja. A non-vintage blend, this displays lively red currant and berry fruit flavours with some floral and peppery notes. A winning match for grilled lamb or pork, or paella done on your outdoor grill. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta.

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