The wine grape harvest is under way in vineyards across the country, bringing excitement and new discoveries. Canadian winemakers get one opportunity a year to make wine, which adds to the stress of the endeavour. Deciding when to pick the grapes and how to handle that fruit before fermentation is crucial to developing the character of the finished wine.
Veteran vintners often draw parallels between the current growing season and previous harvests. It helps them focus their efforts, and offers lessons from the past. But this year is different for many producers in British Columbia and Ontario.
Wineries in many parts of British Columbia are working with vineyards in other regions, filling their tanks with wines they are making with grapes from Oregon, Washington State and Ontario. (These atypical wines will be labelled to reflect the origin of the grape varieties used.) In Niagara, 2024 isn’t drawing any recent comparisons. There might be similarities to the weather patterns of 2004, but that was a different world for grape-growing and winemaking know-how.
“We don’t have a hot year, we don’t have a cool year,” says Thomas Bachelder while inspecting the growth in a pinot noir vineyard in Vineland, Ont., last week. “Do we have a classic year? It’s too soon to tell, but I can say I look forward to seeing how this latest child of mine is going to turn out.”
One of Bachelder’s pinot noirs from the variable 2021 vintage, which saw drought conditions mixed with periods of high humidity and rainfall, is recommended this week with eight other noteworthy Canadian wines.
Bachelder Les Villages Bench Pinot Noir 2021 (Canada), $34.95
Winemaker Thomas Bachelder’s Les Villages label is created by blending barrels that didn’t make the cut for his single-vineyard wines. This pretty and fine-grained pinot noir includes portions from the Wismer-Parke and Hanck vineyards in Vineland and McNally and Saunders sites in Beamsville, Ont. The style is bright and charming, with a satisfying ripe core of cherry fruit with spice accents. Drink now to 2030. Available at the above price in Ontario, $40.25 in Quebec.
Benjamin Bridge Brut (Canada), $30.50
This bottle-fermented sparkling wine is a fragrant blend of l’acadie and chardonnay from vineyards in Nova Scotia’s Gaspereau Valley. It’s more perfumed and flavourful than many traditional-method bubblies, with a crowd-pleasing mix of citrus, pear and floral notes. Vibrant acidity makes the flavours pop and makes for a clean, crisp finish. Drink now. Available at the above price in Nova Scotia, various prices in British Columbia and Alberta, $27.92 in Manitoba, $39.99 in Ontario, sold in six-bottle cases, lifford.com, $32.25 in Quebec, $30.99 in New Brunswick, $31.99 in Prince Edward Island, $33.53 in Newfoundland.
Blue Mountain Estate Cuvee Pinot Noir 2022 (Canada), $34.90
Estate Cuvee is Blue Mountain’s entry-level pinot noir and a solid representation of the house style. It’s a blend of clones from younger vines (15 and 16 years old) planted at the highest elevation on the estate, overlooking Vaseux Lake, in Okanagan Falls. This is fuller-bodied and flavourful, with a ripe core of dark fruit rounded out by spice and herbal notes. The silky texture and balancing acidity make this easy to appreciate from the start. Drink now to 2030. Available at the above price direct, bluemountainwinery.com, various prices in British Columbia and Alberta.
Burrowing Owl Athene 2021 (Canada), $41
Named after the burrowing owl’s scientific name (Athene cunicularia), Athene is a cabernet sauvignon and syrah blend that’s always a standout in this family-owned winery’s range. Produced from estate vineyards on the Black Sage Bench in the Okanagan, this nicely integrated and flavourful red offers compelling spicy and fruity (blackberry, black cherry, plum) character with floral and herbal notes adding more complexity. The ripe and robust character is appealing now but is built to last. Drink now to 2034. Available direct, burrowingowlwine.ca.
Cave Spring Estate Grown Cave Spring Vineyard Cabernet Franc 2022 (Canada), $20.95
Produced from one of the pioneering vinifera vineyards on the Beamsville Bench in Ontario, this ripe and expressive cabernet franc shows the grape variety at its best. The ripe character suggests a mix of dark fruit and savoury notes without any green or rustic edges. Winemaker Gabe DeMarco has ushered in new approaches in the cellar, favouring wild fermentation and employing a mix of neutral barrels (older oak that doesn’t impart obvious smoke, toast or vanilla flavours) to maintain the focus and purity of the finished wines. A great value Ontario red, this offers impressive texture and length that’s enjoyable now, with the stuffing to develop nicely in the bottle. Drink now to 2030. Available at the above price in Ontario or direct, cavespring.ca.
Culmina Perle de Rosé No. 20 (Canada), $35
This is Culmina’s first sparkling wine from its estate vineyards in the southern Okanagan. Made from a blend of organically grown merlot and cabernet franc that underwent secondary fermentation in bottle, this is a crisp and dry bubbly that offers a mix of citrus (grapefruit, lemon), berry and peach flavours. There’s an appealing rich texture and purity on display here, with a refreshing finish that makes this suitable to enjoy by the glass or with a meal. Drink now to 2026. Available direct, culmina.ca.
Henry of Pelham Sparkling Wine (Ontario), $17.95
A new addition to the Henry of Pelham range, this is a fruity and friendly tank-fermented sparkling wine. The flavour mixes apricot, peach and green apple with a tangy lime sherbet accent, suggesting that a Prosecco-style sparkler was the influence. It’s refreshing, flavourful and well-priced. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, direct from henryofpelham.com.
Le Vieux Pin Syrah Cuvée Violette 2022 (Canada), $36.99
Le Vieux Pin’s portfolio of wines from the southern Okanagan offers plenty of excitement, but I find myself recommending this stylish red most often. It offers classic syrah character, with its fragrant and complex mix of blueberry, violet (hence the wine’s name) and peppery notes that gain added interest from black olive and sage accents. On the palate, it’s bright and refined, thanks to a supple texture and refreshing, flavourful finish. Drink now to 2030. Available at the above price direct, levieuxpin.ca, various prices in Alberta, $59.50 in Quebec.
Mason Vineyard The Landed Cabernet Franc 2022 (Canada), $55
This small-batch red wine comes from Kelly Mason’s vineyard on the Twenty Mile Bench in Niagara wine country. It’s classically cabernet franc in nature with appealing concentration and silky texture. The flavours suggest an intriguing mix of fruit (cherry, raspberry, blackberry) with some spicy and herbal notes as part of a sophisticated and juicy wine with a lengthy finish. This is drinking beautifully now with depth and structure to mature gracefully. Drink now to 2032. Available direct, masonvineyard.com.