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waters on wine

Unless you’re organizing a wine tasting, the bottles you select to pour at weddings, parties and social functions are there to play a supporting role. For some families, sharing a bottle of wine is an enjoyable way to come together.

This list has taken shape while travelling across France. It’s inspired by the constant reminder of the role that wine plays in the fabric of cities, villages and communities. The local wine is a source of pride and a sense of identity. Even as consumption declines and the wine culture fragments, it’s an essential part of daily life for many, a way to socialize and enjoy a meal to its full extent.

To that end, here are some recommendations for well-made wines from around the world that are produced from classic grape varieties and are suitable to sip on their own or paired with food. None of them are showstoppers, the sorts of bottle that become the focal point of conversation, but they can add pleasure to a shared moment in time.

Château des Charmes Gamay Noir 2021 (Canada), $15.95

Rating:87 /100

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One of Ontario’s winemaking pioneers, Château des Charmes has a long history producing red wine with the gamay grape in Niagara. This medium-bodied and dry style is marked by tart cherry and toasty flavours, which combine with the bright acidity to result in a refreshing wine best enjoyed served slightly chilled (especially during warm-weather months.) Drink now to 2025. Available at the above price in Ontario, direct, chateaudescharmes.com.

Chateau Ste. Michelle Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 (United States), $22.95

Rating:88 /100

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This Washington State cabernet can be counted on to provide a ripe and round style, with sweet dark fruit, cedar and smoke notes that are simple yet effective. A well-made selection, this is a versatile pizza, pasta or burger red. Drink now to 2026. Available at the above price in Ontario, $24.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $25.99 in Saskatchewan, $29.79 in New Brunswick, $25.69 in Nova Scotia, $28.09 in Newfoundland.

Domaine de Pouilly Cuvée Prestige Pouilly-Fuissé 2022 (France), $58.95

Rating:91 /100

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Pouilly-Fuissé is an appellation in the Mâconnais subregion of Burgundy that produces distinctive white wines from the chardonnay grape. This opens with a richer nose, suggesting buttery, honey and lemon-drop notes as part of a complex white wine. The flavours are nicely layered, with decent balance between the ripe fruit and secondary oak-derived notes and a lingering earthy finish. Drink now to 2027. Available in Ontario.

Liberty School Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 (United States), $23.95

Rating:89 /100

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Liberty School is a label made by Austin Hope Wines, a family-owned winery gaining a reputation for the quality of its cabernets from Paso Robles. This full-bodied red presents a rich and ripe style, with a core of sweet fruit accented by savoury and vanilla notes. It’s ready to enjoy. Drink now to 2026. Available at the above price in Ontario, $25.99 in British Columbia ($23.49 until June 29), Manitoba and Prince Edward Island, various prices in Alberta, $24.99 in Saskatchewan, $22.99 in Quebec, $26.76 in New Brunswick, $26.98 in Prince Edward Island, $27.05 in Newfoundland.

M. Chapoutier Les Vignes de Bila-Haut Côtes du Roussillon-Villages 2022 (France), $16.96

Rating:90 /100

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From his home base in the Rhône Valley, Michel Chapoutier has expanded his winemaking efforts into other parts of France as well as Spain, Portugal and Australia. To his credit, the quality level of his wines didn’t flag as his empire grew. This savoury and refreshing red wine comes from Domaine de Bila-Haut, Chapoutier’s 77-hectare estate in the deep south of France. Made from organically grown grenache, syrah and cinsault grapes, this offers an engaging mix of juicy fruity and peppery spice flavours that lead to a clean and fresh finish. Drink now to 2029. Available at that above price in Ontario ($14.95 until June 23), $19.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $22.99 in Prince Edward Island, $23.96 in Newfoundland.

Matua Valley Sauvignon Blanc Lighter 2023 (New Zealand), $18.99

Rating:87 /100

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With a declared 8.5 per cent alcohol by volume, this non-vintage white wine displays the green and grassy character of sauvignon blanc from New Zealand. The flavours lack the concentration of Matua’s traditional sauvignon blanc style, which is likely why the winery advises to serve well chilled. The mix of citrus and subtle tropical notes are enjoyable if a touch dilute. Drink now. Available at the above price in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $17.49 in Manitoba, $20 in New Brunswick.

Novellum Chardonnay 2022 (France), $19.95

Rating:88 /100

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Labelled simply as a Vins de France, this medium-bodied chardonnay is a blend of wines fermented and aged in stainless steel and older oak barrels. The crowd-pleasing style is ripe and refreshing, without the veneer of oak-derived flavours. It’s a dry white that’s nicely balanced and ready to enjoy on its own or with a meal. Drink now to 2026. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta.

Southbrook Triomphe Organic Chardonnay 2019 (Canada), $26.95

Rating:91 /100

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Southbrook has been a longstanding advocate of organic grape growing in Niagara. Its Triomphe label is a blend of chardonnay from growers that was fermented and aged in older French oak barrels. The finished wine shows appealing fragrance and flavour focused on tree fruit (yellow apple, peach and citrus) and toasty notes with a creamy texture that carries to a refreshing finish. Drink now to 2027. Available at the above price in Ontario, $26.75 direct, southbrook.com.

Thirty Bench Steel Post Vineyard Small Lot Riesling 2020 (Canada), $33.95

Rating:93 /100

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The riesling vines used to create Thirty Bench’s Steel Post label were planted in 1982 by the winery founders. Now under the corporate umbrella of Peller, this Beamsville, Ont., estate has been able to invest in research and development as well as vineyard and winery needs. It’s made in a satisfying drier style, with the fruity intensity acting as a counterpoint to the wine’s marked acidity. Great balance and concentration. Drink now to 2032. Available at the above price in Ontario, $38.99 in British Columbia.

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