The first day of spring is on the horizon, but it often comes with little solace. There’s no seasonal switch to be flipped, instantly ushering in warm and sunny weather; nevertheless, we celebrate winter winding down, polar vortex come what may.
The days ahead are a chance to embrace wines that I would classify as comforting. These are styles of hearty wines, with richly concentrated flavours that are perfectly suited to cozy wintry meals and lingering around the table.
I often have a wine selected before I know what’s for dinner. Matching wine to mood is more important to me than worrying about having the perfect match for the meal.
When the sunny and warm conditions finally arrive, I know it’s unlikely I’ll open a savoury red wine, such as the Castelgreve Riserva Chianti Classico from Tuscany or Tommasi Rafaèl Valpolicella Classico Superiore from the Veneto, which are featured amongst this week’s recommendations. In my mind, their drinking window is closing so I want to make sure I take the opportunity to enjoy them, and other hearty and robust wine styles, now when I believe they taste their best. They’ll be back in rotation next fall.
Other featured wines, such as the pinot noirs, chardonnay and that affordable shiraz, can be rightly viewed as all-season selections. There’s something about their ripe character that strike me as cozy wines ready to be enjoyed now.
Angeline Pinot Noir 2022 (United States), $22.95
A multiregion blend from vineyards in various parts of California, Angeline offers a mix of ripe and bright fruit flavours. Using grapes from warm and cooler growing locations results in a complex array of flavours, including ripe red cherry, cranberry and pomegranate, with vanilla, peppery and savoury notes. This is a generous style of pinot noir, with appealing fragrance and balanced character. Drink now to 2027. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta, $24.25 in Quebec.
Castelgreve Riserva Chianti Classico 2019 (Italy), $23.95
Produced by Castelli del Grevepesa, a large co-operative winery in Chianti Classico, this is a bold and comforting red wine with an appealing sweet/sour character, robust structure and energetic acidity. The violet and floral notes make a nice first impression, while the texture, which is concentrated and almost creamy in nature, is balanced by rich tannins. A serious red wine for the dinner table. Drink now to 2026. Available in Ontario.
Clos du Soleil Winemaker’s Series Syrah 2021 (Canada), $38.99
Syrah from Blind Creek Vineyard in the Similkameen Valley is co-fermented with viognier grapes for this expressive and savoury red wine from Clos du Soleil in the Okanagan. The mixture of dark fruit, white pepper and smoked-meat notes make this complex and compelling. Still youthful, this is just starting to show its true potential. Decant if you plan on opening soon. Drink now to 2029. Available at the above price in British Columbia, $39.90 direct, closdusoleil.com, various prices in Alberta.
Cusumano Presti e Pegni Benuara Syrah/Nero d’Avola 2021 (Italy), $17.95
A blend of two darkly coloured and flavourful grape varieties, this Sicilian red wine reveals an intriguing array of floral, berry/cherry fruit and savoury notes. The flavours are concentrated and nicely balanced by tannin and acidity. There’s a lot of character and flavour for the price. Drink now to 2029. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta, $19.25 in Quebec.
Königschaffhauser Steingrüble Trocken Pinot Noir 2019 (Germany), $18.95
Germany is the world’s third largest producer of pinot noir, but we see surprisingly few available on store shelves outside of this one from a winemaking co-operative in Baden. The 2019 vintage has a ripe core of kirsch and plum with some spice and floral notes. It’s an honest expression of the grape, with some herbal notes on the lingering finish that add to its charm. Drink now to 2026. Available in Ontario.
Painted Rock Estate Winery Cabernet Franc 2021 (Canada), $58.99
The Painted Rock vineyard on the Skaha Bench in the Okanagan Valley was designed to produce the flagship red blend, Red Icon, with merlot, cabernet franc and other Bordeaux varieties grown on the estate. The rich and fragrant character of the stand-alone cabernet franc has quickly made this special wine one of the standouts in the portfolio. The 2021 shows a polished character with a satisfying mix of dark fruit, sage and savoury flavours. The richness and intensity make this enjoyable now, but with tremendous potential to develop in bottle. Drink now to 2032. Available at the above price in British Columbia, $54.99 direct, paintedrock.ca.
One Pound Per Acre Shiraz 2022 (Australia), $9.95
The affordable One Pound Per Acre brand relies on grapes grown in Australia’s Riverland region, which has long been the source of inexpensive brands from Down Under. This is ripe and smooth, with six grams per litre residual sweetness contributing to the plush texture. The concentrated dark fruit flavours are fresh and nicely rounded out by earthy, black olive and dark chocolate notes. Drink now. Available in Ontario.
Tommasi Rafaèl Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2021 (Italy), $18.95
Today, the fourth-generation of the Tommasi family, which makes wine in the Valpolicella Classico region, owns 106 hectares of vineyards. Rafael is a blend of corvina, rondinella and molinara grapes, which are grown on vines that are part of the the original six-hectare plot in the foothills of Monte Masua. The red wine’s style is rich and ripe, with sweet cherry jam and floral notes enhanced by balsamic and earthy notes. The finish features a lingering bitterness that appeals. Drink now to 2027. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta, $29.99 in Manitoba.
Wakefield Estate Label Chardonnay 2022 (Australia), $16.95
A blend of chardonnay from Padthaway and Clare Valley in South Australia, this is a crowd-pleasingly ripe and juicy white wine with nice balance between its creamy texture and zesty acidity. The flavours suggest a mix of citrus, nutty and vanilla notes, which carry through to the refreshing finish. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, $19.99 in British Columbia and Nova Scotia.