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waters on wine

New releases from wineries and liquor stores tend to be more serious as we get deeper into the year. Selection turns toward more robust wines and older vintages, with visions of holiday parties dancing in our heads.

That doesn’t mean you need to trade out a favourite refreshing white for a red wine with concentration and complexity. As always, shop for styles of wine you know you’ll appreciate, but know that you have options to try something different.

The nine wines recommended here check a lot of boxes. They are richer expressions that suit the cooler weather. Their crowd-pleasing nature makes them suitable for entertaining, perfect for anyone looking to shop ahead. They are styles that are enjoyable to sip and savour or serve with a meal.

Red wines rule the roost this week, which wasn’t an intentional act. There were just more samples in recent tastings, including some long-standing favourite red blends from Italy and France.

The Bastide Miraflors and Tessellae labels come from Domaine Lafage, a seventh-generation operation in the South of France that has an extensive range of old vineyards to draw from. Meanwhile, Passimento Rosso is produced by the Pasqua family, which is preparing to celebrate its 100th anniversary producing wine in Italy’s Veneto region.

Canadian wineries often unveil some of their finest selections leading up to the festive season. The timing allows reserve wines time to age in barrel and bottle before release. It also helps increase cash flow as they prepare to pay for the grapes harvested for wines made in the 2024 vintage.

Bachelder Wismer-Wingfield Chardonnay 2022 (Canada), $60

Rating:95 /100

Niagara winemaker Thomas Bachelder launched his own label in 2009, establishing contracts with grape growers such as the Saunders and Wismer families since he didn’t own land. This serious and focused chardonnay comes from Wismer-Wingfield vineyard in Vineland, a site that’s responsible for Bachelder’s most structured and expressive wines, a personality that really shines in this 2022 chardonnay. This is concentrated and complex with ripe and zesty fruit flavour accentuated by toffee and sesame notes. Drink now-2034. Available direct, bachelderniagara.com.

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Bastide Miraflors Syrah Old Vines Grenache 2021 (France), $19.95

Rating:89 /100

This old vine red blend from Roussillon successfully captures the juicy, floral and flavourful personalities of syrah and grenache. Made in a rich, ripe and harmonious style, this combines liqueur-like fruit flavours with savoury notes. Big and boozy. (14.5-per-cent abv), this is a wine made for cold nights and hearty dishes. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, $26.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $29.20 in New Brunswick.

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Bordón Gran Reserva 2013 (Spain), $27.95

Rating:92 /100

Bordón was established as Bodegas Franco-Espanolas in 1890, after phylloxera destroyed vineyards in France and winemakers moved to Rioja. The name changed in the 1960s, but a traditional winemaking philosophy remains. This developed and complex tempranillo blend was aged in American oak barrels for two years and in bottle prior to release. Eleven years on, this is refreshing and refined, well-balanced with red fruit, spice and leather notes. Drink now-2028. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta, $29.65 in Quebec.

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En Terre Cabernet Franc 2022 (Canada), $39

Rating:90 /100

En Terre is a new Okanagan label from winemaker Nadine Kinvig and Terravista Vineyards owners, Eric and Dallas Thor. The opening lineup included a riesling, a brut sparkling wine and this cabernet franc, from Storm Haven Vineyard in Okanagan Falls. The style is ripe and savoury, with red berry and cherry fruit mingling with sage, earth and oak-derived spice. Bright acidity and chewy tannins provide structure and potential for aging. Drink now-2030. Available direct, terravistavineyards.com.

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Louis Latour Chardonnay Bourgogne 2022 (France), $25.95

Rating:90 /100

Louis Latour takes advantage of its extensive array of chardonnay vines spread across Burgundy to produce this rich and refreshing white wine. A blend of tank and barrel fermented wines, this has a pleasant creamy texture with a nicely balanced mix of apple, lemon and honey flavours. Drink now-2028. Available at the above price in Ontario, $34.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $35.99 in Manitoba, $24.75 in Quebec, $40.19 in New Brunswick, $35.19 in Nova Scotia.

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Stoneleigh Latitude Sauvignon Blanc 2023, (New Zealand), $23.95

Rating:91 /100

Stoneleigh’s Latitude label offers a step up in intensity and texture from its entry level Marlborough sauvignon blanc. The typical tropical fruit, melon and grapefruit notes are conveyed as part of a ripe and refreshing white wine that’s easy to appreciate. Drink now-2027. Available at the above price in Ontario, $23.99 in British Columbia ($21.99 until Nov. 23), various prices in Alberta, $28.29 in Manitoba, $29.99 in New Brunswick, $27.49 in Prince Edward Island, $30.71 in Newfoundland.

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Susana Balbo Críos Malbec 2022 (Argentina), $17.95

Rating:89 /100

This fresh and flavourful malbec comes from vineyards in Mendoza’s Uco Valley. Made in a ripe and complex style, this offers blackberry, cherry and currant flavours with warm spice, black olive and dark chocolate notes. Nicely balanced with a supple texture, this is ready to enjoy on its own or with a meal. Drink now-2027. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in British Columbia and Alberta.

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Tessellae Old Vines Grenache/Syrah/Mourvèdre 2021 (France), $19.95

Rating:90 /100

This red blend from Roussillon in the south of France combines grenache, syrah and mourvèdre from vines planted more than 50 years ago. A complex and powerful (14.5-per-cent abv) red, this delivers a mix of fresh dark fruit, kirsch and herbal (rosemary, thyme) notes as part of its concentrated character. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in British Columbia and Alberta.

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Pasqua Passimento Rosso IGT 2021 (Italy), $14.95

Rating:87 /100

This juicy and complex red wine from the Veneto region is a blend of merlot, corvina and croatina grapes, which were dried for four weeks prior to fermentation. Air drying concentrates the sugar and contributes richer flavours to the finished wine. Expect a satisfying mix of cherry and berry flavours with peppery spice notes that are enjoyable sipped solo or consumed with a meal. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, $19.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $20.66 in Nova Scotia.

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