It’s time to restock the cellar for late-summer entertaining, which means seeking out interesting and enjoyable wines that are crowd-pleasing and will flatter whatever is on the menu. Bright and balanced wines, mostly whites and rosés are the order of the day, which has inspired this week’s recommendations.
When you’re shopping for approachable and refreshing bottles, pinot grigio fits the bill, naturally. But there are plenty of mouth-watering and flavourful white wines to consider. I’m especially excited to introduce guests to the classic character of a Hunter Valley semillon and an engaging and atypical Californian white made with the picpoul grape.
Rosés and chardonnays are made in a variety of styles by wineries in this country. Some new and old favourites are featured along with a stylish extra dry vermouth that is sure to add magic to your martini.
Attems Pinot Grigio 2023 (Italy), $19.95
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A ripe and vibrant pinot grigio from Fruili, this offers yellow apple, pear and citrus notes as part of its medium-bodied and flavourful personality. The style is nicely balanced with grapefruit-zest notes on the lingering finish. The Attems name dates to 1106, when Archbishop of Salzburg granted 42 hectares of farmland. The winery is now owned by the Frescobaldi family. Drink now. Available in Ontario at the above price, various prices in Alberta, $19.35 in Quebec.
Blue Mountain Estate Cuvee Chardonnay 2022 (Canada), $29.90
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The Mavety family’s vineyard in Okanagan Falls is home to four different clones of chardonnay (76, 95, 96 and 548), ranging in age from 16 to 33 years at the time of the 2022 harvest. Each contributes to the expressive character of Blue Mountain’s chardonnay that’s sleek, sophisticated and an enduring benchmark for the Okanagan region. The house style focuses on fresh fruit and vibrancy, with some oatmeal, earthy and nutty notes that add to the richness and complexity. Drink now to 2030. Available direct, bluemountainwinery.com.
Bonny Doon Picpoul 2023 (United States), $19.95
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Bonny Doon winemaker Randall Grahm started playing with the picpoul grape in the hopes of adding more character to his popular Cigare Blanc white blend. Since 2011, Bonny Doon has bottled the variety on its own, making this a rare California take on a lesser-known French grape typecast for making simple, fresh white to drink with oysters. This is youthful and tangy, showing floral and savoury notes as part of a nicely balanced and engaging white. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta, $20.65 in Quebec (2022 vintage).
Brokenwood Semillon 2023 (Australia), $21.95
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Hunter Valley semillon is an acquired taste. Youthful versions like this have a restrained and steely style that’s easy to overlook. Mature examples take on a honey and beeswax character – the classic style was described to me as being “like petroleum jelly slathered on warm toast” – with a creamy texture and nutty/toasty complexity. Try some now to check out that bracing burst of lime/lemon flavour. Tuck some bottles away to see that richer profile emerge. Drink now to 2032. Available at the above price in Ontario, $24.90 in Quebec (2021).
Burrowing Owl Rosé 2023 (Canada), $30
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This impressive rosé is made with estate-grown cabernet franc grapes from Burrowing Owl’s vineyards in Oliver and Osoyoos. The two parcels were harvested, fermented and aged separately prior to blending and bottling. The flavour suggests a mix of red berry fruit with peppery notes. The character is relatively full-bodied, powerful and dry, with a refreshing aftertaste. A style suitable to enjoying on its own or with a meal. Drink now to 2026. Available direct, burrowingowl.ca, various prices in Alberta.
Château d’Aigueville Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2019 (France), $18.95
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A blend of grenache, syrah and Carignan, this presents a mix of spice and dark fruit (black cherry, plum) flavours that are juicy and complex. The style is generous and ready to drink. Chill slightly for best enjoyment, some warmth from the alcohol is present on the nose and palate. Drink now. Available in Ontario.
Cocchi di Torino Extra Dry Vermouth (Italy), $30.95/500 ml
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Produced in Piedmont with the cortese grape and botanicals including angelica, cardamom and wormwood, this is a light and crisp white vermouth for mixing martinis and other cocktails. It’s lemon and mint flavour profile is also enjoyable served with soda or tonic water. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in British Columbia and Alberta, $36.95 in Manitoba, $27.10 in Quebec.
Mission Hill Reserve Rosé 2023 (Canada), $26
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A mix of grapes and Okanagan vineyards contributes to the ripe and refreshing character of this satisfying dry rosé. The blend includes pinot noir, merlot and cabernet franc (with a drop of syrah), resulting in a complex mix of rhubarb, watermelon and citrus flavours. The finished wine is a combination of tank- and barrel-aged lots to contribute some weight and texture to it. Drink now. Available at the above price in British Columbia or direct, missionhillwinery.ca, various prices in Alberta, $25.35 in Quebec, $28.19 in New Brunswick.
Red Barn at Jagged Rock Transfiction Rosé 2023 (Canada), $30
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Red Barn is a boutique operation that’s part of the Iconic Wineries of British Columbia family that includes Mission Hill, CheckMate, CedarCreek, Martin’s Lane, Liquidity and Road 13. It’s a winery designed for small-batch production, with a variety of glass, concrete and stainless-steel tanks in the cellar. This gamay-based rosé was fermented and aged in concrete that adds some texture to the vibrant berry and herbal flavours. Drink now to 2026. Available direct redbarn.wine.
Trius Showcase Wild Ferment Chardonnay 2020 (Canada), $38
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This expressive chardonnay comes from the Watching Tree Vineyard (formerly known as Oliveira Vineyard) in Niagara’s Lincoln Lakeshore sub-appellation. It’s always a complex and richly textured white wine. The warm 2020 vintage adds more ripe stone-fruit flavours to the mix of lemon, earth and cedar notes. Drink now to 2026. Available at the above price in Ontario or direct, shop.triuswines.com.