New releases from Okanagan wineries carry a bittersweet air. Benefiting from increased winemaking and grape growing knowledge, older vines and better winemaking equipment, most of the red, white, pink and sparkling wines have never been better. However, the devasting effects of winter injury means the vineyards responsible for the wines on the shelves need rehabilitation or replanting.
For the second winter in a row, temperatures dipped below -20 °C, which is damaging to vitis vinifera varieties, such as cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay and merlot. Subzero temperatures experienced from January 11 to 15 resulted in catastrophic crop losses, with industry estimates suggesting the 2024 grape harvest will be 97-99 per cent lower than usual. Permanent damage to the vines is still being calculated.
Syrah vines have really taken a beating. The variety doesn’t cope with cold temperatures as well as riesling, cabernet franc or chardonnay. The 2023 harvest saw a 72 per cent decrease in syrah production, following a cold snap on December 22, 2022.
Michael Bartier, general manager of Bartier Family Vineyards, says the syrah vines in their Cerqueira Vineyard on the Black Sage Bench were killed by the December 2022 freeze and have not been replanted. That makes the fragrant and flavourful character of Bartier Bros Granite 2021 ($29.99, bartierbros.com) more poignant. A blend of 53 per cent syrah, with merlot, cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon, this full-bodied red offers appealing plummy fruit, savoury overtones and oak derived notes.
Culmina has released the last vintage of syrah from its Arise Bench vineyard, which is part of the Golden Mile Bench sub-appellation. The limited edition, Le Chant du Cygne 2021 ($100, culmina.ca), is a stylish blend of syrah and cabernet sauvignon with serious structure and complexity. Its sophisticated character is marked by black cherry, black currant, dark chocolate, peppery spice and fresh herbs.
Canadian wine collectors who have been snapping up bottles of Nota Bene, the flagship red wine from Black Hills Estate Winery, will also be feeling a sense of loss. Following the release of the 2023 vintage next year, there will be a break in production as vineyards on the Black Sage Bench are redeveloped. In the meantime, the newly released Black Hills Estate Nota Bene 2022 ($70, blackhillswinery.com) is showing beautifully in its youth.
Nota Bene 2022 is fragrant and focused, with a youthful core of fresh red and black fruit and silky and satisfying texture. This is a generous red that has tremendous potential for aging.