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Scalp treatments with rosemary oil for hair growth have gained viral status among the tress-conscious on social media. Before adding a trending product to your routine, you’ll want to proceed with caution.
Oils can help keep your scalp healthy and alleviate dry skin, but some can also clog pores, or with some essential oils, cause contact dermatitis, says Mandy Robertson, a trichologist who specializes in hair and scalp care, and owner of Deeply Rooted Hair Clinic in Vancouver.
With the impact of COVID-19 on hair loss, coupled with the carryover surge of interest in skin care and self-care from the pandemic, hair treatments have been pushed to the forefront of wellness. But it can be tricky to pinpoint exactly why your scalp is bothering you or why your hair is duller and drier, and adding a new product without all the facts could exacerbate an underlying cause.
As a first step, it’s important to rule out a skin issue. What you think is a dry, flaky scalp could actually be seborrheic dermatitis, says Robertson. The inflammatory scalp condition is characterized by patches of scaly, flaky and inflamed skin, and it’s best to see a dermatologist for a diagnosis to understand what you’re dealing with. Seborrheic dermatitis and psoriasis, which can cause more hair to shed and affect the condition of the hair, are much more common than we think, she says.
But once a skin issue is ruled out, and even while you’re waiting to get in with a dermatologist, tending to your scalp properly can pay off. While many hair-loss conditions require more targeted treatments, having a healthy scalp as a base can offer better results, says Robertson.
The universal path toward a less-irritated scalp starts in the shower with gentle cleansing using a sulfate-free shampoo. If you have sensitive skin, try a fragrance-free formula, Robertson says. “It is important to massage all areas to remove product and build-up. Many people focus on the top of their head and forget the back of the scalp,” says Robertson.
Using an anti-dandruff treatment once a week to treat or prevent seborrheic dermatitis is another of the trichologist’s top recommendations that can benefit the majority of us. She advises looking for a shampoo that contains ketoconazole, zinc pyrithione, selenium sulfide, and/or salicylic acid, noting “those ingredients can ensure that the scalp’s microbiome remains balanced.” For best results, she says, be sure to massage the shampoo into the scalp and let it sit on the skin for a few minutes before rinsing.
Whatever state your scalp may be in, paying more attention to it can benefit the way your strands look and feel. Recent research has proven the link between a healthy scalp and healthy hair, says Robertson. In the International Journal of Cosmetic Science, a 2021 review of more than 20 studies found strong evidence that an improvement to scalp health can influence the quality of hair produced, including the potential to reduce brittleness.
Toronto-based hairstylist Duyen Huynh uses hair oil to help with hair hydration and to prevent dryness. Her scalp-care routine has evolved since she switched from a bob to a buzz cut two years ago. These days, she extends the use of several of her facial products past her hairline. “With a shaved head, I feel more confident and liberated. But, with no hair, my scalp is more exposed, making it essential to maintain its health and hydration.”
In addition to gentle cleansing, exfoliation and sunscreen for UV protection of her bare head, Huynh also relies on a lightweight, non-greasy hair oil as a moisturizer to prevent dryness and flakes. She prefers oils to cream products for delivering lightweight nourishment that doesn’t build up and clog her pores.
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With any oily product, she says, it’s important to use restraint. “Don’t put in too much. It can weigh hair down and create little bumps in the scalp,” Huynh says. She uses her go-to, Insight Styling Liquid Crystals, which is a blend of organic sesame and flax-seed oils, sparingly as a treatment. After warming a few drops between her palms and massaging the oil into her scalp with fingertips, she lets it absorb for 30 minutes before washing it out.
In any healthy-scalp routine, Robertson aims to minimize inflammation. “Since the hair follicles are where the hairs are manufactured, keeping them free of irritating ingredients can help to optimize hair growth,” she says. For moisturizing, she prefers serums that contain squalane (a plant-derived moisturizer), ethylhexyl olivate (a non-greasy, olive-derived emollient) and hyaluronic acid (a humectant that helps attract moisture in skin cells).
On days you’re not using an anti-dandruff shampoo, your scalp may benefit from a prewash exfoliating scalp serum. A liquid treatment, it uses ingredients, such as salicylic and glycolic acids, to break down and remove sebum, dead skin-cell flakes and product build-up at the roots. “Serums are gentler on the scalp than scrubs and don’t leave a residue,” says Robertson.
Six scalp-friendly products to try
A preshampoo treatment for all hair types, this scalp serum contains a blend of exfoliating acids (salicylic and glycolic) to reduce excess oils and remove product residue while hyaluronic acid leaves strands hydrated. L’Oréal Paris Hyaluron Pure Oil Erasing Serum for Oily Hair, $11, Shoppers Drug Mart
A mix of selenium sulfide (an anti-fungal active ingredient), exfoliating salicylic acid and soothing vitamin E help to remove flakes and calm an itchy scalp. Vichy Dercos Anti-Dandruff Shampoo for Normal to Dry Hair, $23, walmart.ca
Free of sulfates and added fragrance that may irritate the scalp, this shampoo contains glycerin, aloe-leaf juice and coconut oil for conditioning that won’t strip hair and is safe for a colour-treated mane. Kristin Ess Fragrance-Free Shampoo, $20, Shoppers Drug Mart
Skin soothers, including shea butter, aloe-leaf juice, glycerin and coconut oil, create a nourishing yet lightweight cream to relieve a dry scalp. SheaMoisture Aloe Butter Scalp Moisture Cream, $15, amazon.ca
Co-developed with a dermatologist to improve hair density and reduce severe hair shedding, this serum contains antioxidants derived from rhubarb root, anti-inflammatory turmeric and olive-leaf extract. Vegamour GRO+ Advanced Hair Serum, $106, sephora.ca
Made for weekly use, a base of squalane (a lightweight oil derived from fermented sugarcane) with oils from coconut, sunflower, rosemary and turmeric root help to strengthen strands, remove product build-up and soothe dryness. JVN Complete Pre-Wash Scalp & Hair Strengthening Treatment Oil, $43.50, sephora.ca